That's one of the primary reasons we created this subreddit. The ONLY problem with Klipper is that it takes 15-20 minutes to install, and that can scare a lot of people off. Lots of mistakes along the way, but It came out cool. Your prints will look better, while printing faster. This is my first attempt at 3D printing terrain for D&D or any tabletop game. Following this, the answer is really simple. Here is a synopsis from the folks on the sub : " Here is my suggestion - use Marlin until you are confident in the mechanical abilities and configuration of your printer. Here is the reddit thread with a ton of info. Always TEST!! Newer versions of Prusa FW have LA built in and ready to go, as well as.įor the CR10 folks out there, I'm doing early research on Klippers firmware. I utilized that Matt's Hubb article as well to enable it and test on my machines. I have used LA on my Prusa's since around the time it was available and it is a game changer, especially for large flat prints like roofs or larger structures. To nerd out on the physics of the subject, take a read through this Matt's Hubb article. 15 layer height for the great detail but there are places further up in the print where you do.Īvailable in Firmwares for Marlin based FW machines, the basics of LA are that it allows for faster, sharper printing. There will always be places in prints and objects where you dont need a. I will Spray filler primer, sand, assess surface quality and if needed repeat the process. Filler Primer from spray can / Bondo / Drywall Texture / Sanding are all options. 3 take medium to more ( :) ) prep time due to the lower quality of the surfaces. Top Layers = 5-7 (You may start to get ugly surface quality so watch and adjust. Infill % = 5% infill, You can drop down here a bit if you keep 2 perimeters above. To increase your probability of a successful print, you should also perform additional actions. At a minimum, the extruder and heated bed (if applicable) need to be set to proper temperatures and the tool head needs to be homed. Perimeters = 1-2 Perimeters - I haven’t found significant time savings going from 1-2 perimeters and would keep 2 for resilience. Add new depth, layers, and dimensions to your 3D models using 2D and 3D terrain maps, aerial imagery, and precise shadows with Add Location from SketchUp. The purpose of the start.gcode script is to prepare the 3D printer for producing the desired object. 2 take minimum to medium prep time due to higher quality of the surfaces. Infill % = I print at 7% infill, I make up for the top surface layer quality with additional top layers (6-7) because I know I can print infill faster with a rectangular or cubic pattern and internal strength is still very good at 7% Perimeters = 2 Perimeters - Good surface quality and resilience with strong bonding Once you feel your basic calibration is good to go, make sure you tune your extruder for the best results.ĬR10 Extruder Calibration Videos on Youtube
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